Wells — Drilling, Digging, and Hand Pumps

A private well is the most reliable long-term water source available to rural and semi-rural households. Unlike surface water, rainwater, or atmospheric sources, a properly constructed well taps a continuous underground aquifer — one that typically continues producing through droughts, power outages, and extended emergencies. The critical difference between a grid-dependent well and a truly resilient one is a hand pump capable of operating without electricity.

This page covers the three main well types, how to evaluate your site, what installation involves, and specifically how to set up hand pump access for grid-down operation.

Installing a permanent well?

For a complete drilling methods comparison (rotary, cable-tool, driven point, bored), casing material specifications, pump sizing, and a full seasonal maintenance schedule, see Well drilling and maintenance.

Well Type Selection

The right well type depends on local water table depth, soil and rock geology, and your budget.

Drilled Wells

Drilled wells are constructed with a rotary or cable-tool drilling rig that cuts through rock and consolidated soil to reach deep aquifers.

  • Typical depth: 100–400 feet (30–122 m); in hard-rock regions, 200–600 feet (61–183 m)
  • Casing: 4–6 inch (10–15 cm) diameter steel or PVC casing through the borehole; grouted at the surface to prevent surface water infiltration
  • Yield: 1–20 gallons per minute (3.8–76 L/min) depending on aquifer; typical household minimum is 1 GPM (3.8 L/min)
  • Cost: $5,000–$15,000+ depending on depth, geology, and region; deep rock wells in the Southeast or Northeast can exceed $20,000
  • Pros: Access to deep, well-protected aquifers; lowest contamination risk; most reliable year-round yield
  • Cons: Requires licensed driller; highest upfront cost; depth limits hand-pump options

Dug Wells

Dug wells are large-diameter excavations (typically 3–6 feet / 0.9–1.8 m) into shallow water table, usually hand- or machine-dug to 20–50 feet (6–15 m).

  • Typical depth: 10–50 feet (3–15 m); must be at least 2 feet (0.6 m) below the water table
  • Casing: Concrete rings, stone, or brick; modern installations use precast concrete rings 3–4 feet (0.9–1.2 m) in diameter
  • Yield: Variable; large diameter provides storage volume (100–200 gallons / 380–760 L inside the casing)
  • Cost: $500–$3,000 for a basic dug well with concrete rings
  • Pros: Lower cost; easier to hand-pump from shallow depth; large storage volume in casing
  • Cons: Shallow aquifer is more vulnerable to surface contamination; may go dry in drought; requires good well head seal to prevent contamination

Driven Wells

Driven wells use a steel "drive point" — a perforated steel tip — pounded into sandy or gravelly soil to reach shallow water tables. No drilling rig required.

  • Typical depth: 15–30 feet (4.5–9 m); limited to unconsolidated formations (sand, gravel, soft clay)
  • Casing diameter: 1.25–2 inch (3.2–5 cm) galvanized steel pipe
  • Cost: $300–$1,000 for materials and labor; DIY-possible with the right soil conditions
  • Pros: Cheapest well option; no permit required in many jurisdictions; can be installed with hand tools
  • Cons: Very shallow; high contamination risk; limited to certain geologies; not practical for main household supply

Driven Wells and Contamination

Because driven wells are very shallow (often less than 25 ft / 7.6 m), they draw from the same aquifer zone that absorbs surface runoff. Agricultural chemicals, septic system effluent, and fuel spills can all contaminate a driven well that appears to work fine. Test the water from a driven well every six months, or before relying on it during an emergency.

Water Table Depth Indicators

Before spending money on drilling, estimate your local water table depth through several free or low-cost methods:

  1. County well records: Most U.S. counties maintain a well construction database accessible online or at the county clerk's office. Search for nearby wells to see reported depths and yields. The USGS National Water Information System (NGWIS) also maintains historical well data.

  2. Neighbor wells: Ask neighboring property owners about their well depth and yield. Local contractors often know the typical range for your area.

  3. Vegetation and landscape: Springs, seeps, and wet meadows indicate shallow groundwater. Cottonwood and willow trees often grow where the water table is within 10–20 feet (3–6 m) of the surface.

  4. Topographic position: Wells drilled in valley bottoms are typically shallower than those on hillsides or ridge tops in the same aquifer system.

  5. Hydrogeological maps: State geological surveys publish maps showing aquifer extents, depths, and yield potential. Available free online for most states.

Field Note

In areas with a high water table (under 20 feet / 6 m), you may be able to hand-drive a well yourself in a weekend using a 1.25-inch (3.2 cm) drive point and galvanized pipe sections. Hardware stores in rural areas often stock the components at an affordable total material cost. Drill a test hole with a post-hole digger first to confirm the soil is sand or gravel — dense clay or rock will stop a drive point immediately.

Casing Materials

The casing prevents borehole collapse and stops surface water from infiltrating the well.

Material Typical Use Pros Cons
Steel (galvanized or black) Drilled wells in rock Strong; available in all diameters; older standard Corrodes over decades; can leach iron
Schedule 80 PVC Modern drilled wells Corrosion-resistant; cheaper than steel Less crush strength; needs careful installation
Concrete rings (precast) Dug wells Large diameter; locally available Seams require careful sealing
Galvanized steel pipe (small) Driven wells Tough; drives easily Corrodes; limited to small diameter

Modern best practice for drilled wells is Schedule 80 PVC casing with a steel surface casing (outer sleeve) for the top 20 feet (6 m) to handle surface loads and provide a grouted seal against surface water infiltration.

Well Head Protection

The well head — the above-ground portion of the casing — is the most vulnerable contamination point.

Minimum requirements: - Well cap must be vermin-proof and watertight; replace standard caps with an inexpensive sanitary well cap - Casing must extend at least 12 inches (30 cm) above the ground surface - The area within 10 feet (3 m) of the well head must slope away from the well to prevent standing water - No chemical storage, fuel tanks, or animal waste within 50 feet (15 m) uphill of the well - Septic systems must be at least 50–100 feet (15–30 m) from the well, per state regulation

Wellhouse construction (optional but valuable for cold climates): A simple insulated wellhouse keeps the pump mechanism and pressure tank from freezing in winter. A 4×4 foot (1.2×1.2 m) insulated shed with a single 100W incandescent bulb on a thermostat is sufficient in most U.S. climates down to -20°F (-29°C).

Hand Pump Installation

A submersible electric pump is the standard for drilled wells. During a grid outage, it is useless without a generator or battery inverter. A hand pump provides mechanical water access regardless of power.

Deep Well Hand Pump Options

For wells deeper than 25 feet (7.6 m), a suction pump cannot lift water — you need a force pump with the cylinder set below the water table.

Bison Pump (bison-pumps.com) - Rated depth: up to 350 feet (107 m) - Typical output: 2–5 gallons per minute (7.6–19 L/min) - Installation: Requires setting the drop pipe and cylinder inside the existing well casing alongside the electric pump (dual-pipe installation) - Cost: $1,200–$1,800 for complete kit; professional installation adds $300–$600 - Notable: Fully stainless steel internal components; designed to last 30+ years with minimal maintenance

Simple Pump (simplepump.com) - Rated depth: up to 350 feet (107 m); solar-compatible motor available - Typical output: 1–5 gallons per minute (3.8–19 L/min) - Installation: Modular design; can be installed alongside existing electric pump - Cost: $1,500–$2,500 depending on depth and accessories - Notable: Optional solar-powered motor operates at low amperage (1–3A at 24V); can run from a single solar panel

Flojak (flojak.com) - Rated depth: up to 300 feet (91 m) - Cost: $700–$1,200 - Notable: Lightweight flexible hose design; faster to install but less robust for full-time use

Shallow Well Hand Pumps (under 25 ft / 7.6 m)

  • Cast iron pitcher pump (also called a "farm pump"): $60–$150 at farm supply stores; installs directly on top of pipe or driven well casing; requires priming; output ~10 gallons per minute (38 L/min) once primed
  • Semi-rotary pump: Better suction than pitcher pump; rated to ~25 feet (7.6 m); $150–$300

Installation Depth Planning

The pump cylinder must be set at least 5 feet (1.5 m) below the static water level — and preferably 10–15 feet (3–4.5 m) below — to account for drawdown during pumping. Your well driller's report should list the static water level (measured depth to water surface when pump is off).

Well drilling is regulated in all 50 U.S. states. Requirements vary but generally include:

  • Permit before drilling: Most states require a permit application and fee (inexpensive to affordable, varies by state) before any drilling begins
  • Licensed driller requirement: Virtually all states require that well drilling be performed by a licensed contractor; DIY drilling of drilled wells is illegal in most jurisdictions
  • Setback requirements: Minimum distances from septic systems, property lines, buildings, and chemical storage
  • Well completion report: Driller files a completion report with the state documenting depth, geology, casing details, and pump test results — keep a copy
  • Water quality test: Many states require a bacteria test before a new well is put into use for drinking water

Contact your state's Department of Natural Resources, Department of Health, or Water Resources agency for current requirements. Penalties for unpermitted wells can include fines and required well abandonment.

Bacteria Testing Requirements

A new or rehabilitated well must be tested before drinking. Annual testing is best practice for any private well.

Minimum tests for a new well: 1. Total coliform bacteria — indicator of fecal contamination pathway; positive result requires disinfection and retest 2. E. coli — confirms fecal contamination; any detection is a health emergency requiring the well to not be used until the source is resolved 3. Nitrates — critical for households with infants under 6 months; levels above 10 mg/L (10 ppm) cause methemoglobinemia ("blue baby syndrome") 4. pH — optimal 6.5–8.5; outside this range affects plumbing and treatment

Optional but recommended for new wells: - Arsenic (common in granitic rock areas and parts of the Midwest and New England) - Lead (older steel casing and solder in plumbing) - Iron and manganese (nuisance parameters; staining but not health risk at typical levels) - Hardness (affects appliances and taste)

Testing cost: $30–$80 for basic coliform/nitrate panel at a certified state lab; $150–$300 for comprehensive panel. County health departments often test for free or low cost. See Water Testing for detailed protocols.

Well Disinfection Procedure

If a test returns positive for coliform bacteria, or after any flooding, well repair, or extended disuse, disinfect with chlorine:

  1. Calculate well volume: depth (feet) × casing area (sq ft) × 7.48 = gallons. For a 4-inch (10 cm) casing at 200-foot (61 m) depth: 200 × 0.087 × 7.48 = ~130 gallons (492 L)
  2. Mix 1 quart (946 mL) of unscented 5.25% household bleach per 100 gallons (378 L) of water in the well
  3. Pour chlorine solution into the well and circulate by running water back into the well from a hose for 15–20 minutes
  4. Let sit for 12–24 hours
  5. Flush until chlorine odor is gone (test with pool test strips)
  6. Retest for bacteria 5–7 days after flushing; do not drink the water until clear test result

Maintenance Schedule

Interval Task
Annual Bacteria and nitrate water test
Annual Inspect and clean well cap; replace if cracked
Annual Check wellhouse/pitless adapter for leaks
3–5 years Full water chemistry panel
5 years Inspect casing and pump mechanism
After any flood Disinfect; do not use until post-disinfection test clears
After nearby chemical spill or land use change Test for VOCs, nitrates, petroleum

Cross-References